By Paul Suplee,
MBA, CEC, PC-3

I love the fact that my chefs (one in each restaurant) get the chance to play with their food. I prefer to allow them to shine and reflect themselves in the specials.

As this business is nothing if not based on consistency, I have to maintain certain recipes and procedures on the standard menu. I then hand the specials over to them.

For the most part, this has been a good strategy, as it gives them at least a semblance of expression.

As much as I would love to have two completely differing venues, there are enough similarities that prevent me from changing everything up. In the hospitality industry, that is critical; consistency is key.

With the remodel in Pittsville soon to be underway, we are still working toward our super-secret boozy lounge in Berlin.

The time is close to begin that project, but Rome wasn’t built in a day, as the old codgers like to say. Patience, Paul, I must remind myself. Patience. All in due time.

For now, I will relish in some of the creations of my chefs, and this one was a spectacular burger made by Chef Paulie D.

I cannot take credit for it, and truth be told, I wasn’t sure how I initially felt about kimchi being placed on a burger. However, after one bite, I was moved. I was in love.

Years ago on a school field trip to the New York Food Show, my former employer George and I ate at a Korean restaurant in midtown.

As we sat down, the table was filled with little bowls of dried anchovies, cured vegetables and assorted goods. We sampled everything, some good and some not quite to our taste, and then when the mains came, they were accompanied by rice and kimchi.

This was my first foray into homemade kimchi, as embarrassing as that is for a chef to admit. The complexity of flavors is what I still remember, and I set out to make a good one.

That Monday, back at school, I followed a recipe judiciously with the class, we jarred it up, and after a month we tried it. It was acceptable, but we pushed forward, and would sample it once a month.

The development was stunning and that is when I started to realize how perfect kimchi can be. And so it is always in my repertoire, especially when teaching.

And now it will be in your arsenal. Make it, live it and bring it to life, and put it on things you never thought possible. You will not regret it.

Kimchi Burger

makes 4 burgers

24 oz. Freshly ground burger, or 4 6-oz patties

Trimix (refresher recipe follows)

4 ea. Brioche burger buns

Butter, as needed

1/2 c. Korean Mayo (recipe follows)

4 c. Homemade Kimchi (recipe follows)

• Grill burgers to a temperature of your liking. This can be made with thick burgers or with smash burgers.

• Melt the butter in a pan and toast the buns on the inside. This is imperative, as I can’t imagine serving a burger on an untoasted bun. Only sinners do that.

• Spread top and bottom bun with mayonnaise and place the burger on the bottom bun.

• Do not add the kimchi until the burger is being served, as it is cold (just think of the cold lettuce, tomato and onion on your joe-sixpack burger).

• When it is go-time, add the kimchi and serve.

Trimix

Makes 1 pint

1 c. Kosher salt

1/2 c. Granulated Garlic

1/2 c. Coarse black pepper

• Combine all ingredients well and store in an airtight container.

Korean Mayo

makes about 1 cup

2/3 c. Mayonnaise (Duke’s or Kewpie)

2 Tbsp. Korean chili powder

2 Tbsp. Gochujang (pepper paste)

Juice of 1 lime

dash sesame oil

• Combine all ingredients well ahead of time and allow the flavors to marry.

• Store in the icebox until ready to use.

Homemade Kimchi

Makes a lot. Don’t worry, it lasts forever and honestly, gets better with time

1 head Napa cabbage, cut into 2-inch squares

2 c. Kosher salt

2 carrots, sliced or julienne

2 cucumbers, sliced

2 bell peppers (red or orange), cut into chunks

6 cloves fresh garlic, smashed

2 inches fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced

8 scallions, root removed and cut into 2” lengths

¼ c. Fish sauce

3 Tbsp. Red miso

1 c. Gochujang

1/2 c. Korean red chili flakes

Watermelon radish or other radish, thinly sliced

2 Tbsp. Sugar

• Liberally salt the cabbage in a large bin that allows you to turn regularly.

• As the salt is hygroscopic, it will leach moisture out of the cabbage, leaving you with a nice pile of pre-pickled pickled cabbage. This can take 3-6 hours.

• Once you are convinced that enough water has been yanked from your cabbage, rinse thoroughly to get as much salt out as possible. Rinse the bin and place the cabbage back in it.

• Combine the rest of the ingredients, mixing well and rubbing the concoction over everything in the bin.

• Pack this into a glass container, making sure to pour any juices that have accumulated.

• Top the jar and place on the counter for 24 hours.

• Give a stir and place in the refrigerator indefinitely. This will get better with time, and the flavor development is out of this world.

—Paul Suplee is a Professor of
Culinary Arts at Wor-Wic
Community College and owner of
boxcar40 and boxcar on main.
Visit him at www.boxcar40.com;
www.boxcaronmain.com