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Mac & cheese: ‘comfort food at its finest’

By Paul Suplee,
MBA, CEC, PC-3

It is the wee hours of the morning, and I am staring out the window at my backyard.

I love my little chunk of paradise, the banana palms in full swing with a couple of them already feet taller than I am.

Not for nothing, I will miss it when we finally sell this house and move out.

After seven years, it is time to sell the palace and downsize to an abode that is more fitting for our family.

As most of the young ones have moved out, the house has become way too big and the natural adjustment of middle-aged shuffling is in play.

I go to the refrigerator to get some ice for my morning water, and find out that the whole unit, a very good one that is only a couple years old, has gone belly up.

The refrigerator cabinet is warm and the entire freezer is thawed. I am devastated, as I have so much meat in the freezer drawer. Or rather, I did.

I sigh as I turn a heavy-duty moving box into a disposal bin for all that money that is now going to be sitting in the dump. Better safe than sorry.

What a glorious morning this is, and I chortle as I think about the old saying “when it rains, it pours” and that certainly seems to be the case at the moment.

With one restaurant closing and new changes on the horizon for my flagship, I find myself in need of comfort food, and I need it fast.

Nary a dish can rival a good Macaroni & Cheese on a comfort food day. Good on its own, it is only elevated when you top it off with lobster, crab, pulled pork, smoked brisket, bacon or grilled chicken (just to name a few and of course if you’re not a meat eater, roasted or grilled vegetables are always a suitable addition).

The sky is the limit when it comes to how you are going to adorn your cheesy pasta creation.

I sit here with the weight of my tiny world on my shoulders, grateful to at least have the support of a beautiful woman and laugh as I try to wisely figure out my next step.

I already know that the next couple of months are going to be arduous to say the least.

But I also know that there is light at the end of the tunnel, and one day I will look back and laugh at all of this, just in a much smaller house.

I will take some of the banana palms with me, as they do transplant readily, and no matter where I land, I will have my little tropical jungle established in no time.

Over the years, I have given hundreds of offshoots away, and others’ gardens have bloomed in their own right. As I write this, I think that I should use some of the leaves for next week’s article.

Fascinating little plants that do not yield any actual bananas (they are a hybrid), when you cut into them they have that distinctive banana smell. But I digress. That is something for another day.

For now, I think it is time to fire up the range and make a nice batch of Mac & Cheese; comfort food at its finest. And no, it is not too early. It’s never too early to cook a fleeting smile on your face.

Mac & Cheese

serves about 8 people

1 lb. Elbow macaroni, cooked and set aside

½ c. Flour

½ c. Unsalted butter

3 c. Whole milk

1 c. Heavy cream

2 c. White cheddar, shredded

2 c. Cheddar, shredded

1 c. Gruyere cheese, shredded

1 c. Parmesan, shredded

Trimix (our old standby), to taste

breadcrumbs and/or bacon bits for garnish (optional)

  1. The macaroni can be cooked until al dente, meaning that it will still have a little bit of a bite to it. Don’t forget that you can bake this, so you do not want it mushy or overcooked at this point
  2. In a large casserole or pan, cook the flour and butter on a medium heat until it starts to color and smell like hazelnuts. This will add a nice layer of richness to the finished dish
  3. Slowly add the milk and cream (both cold) while whisking vigorously so as to incorporate the roux that you just made
  4. After the sauce has thickened (congratulations, you are well on your way to making a basic Sauce Bechamel), slowly add the cheeses setting aside a little of each one to use to top the dish just before baking
  5. Season your mac & cheese with the trimix (if you forgot its 2 parts Kosher salt, 1 part granulated garlic and 1 part coarse black pepper) and place in a baking pan or keep in the casserole for the last step
  6. Top with the remaining cheese and breadcrumbs and/or bacon bits and bake at 375F until golden on top. This is optional, and honestly sometimes I do this step and other times I do not when I make this at home. It depends on how we are feeling that day
  7. Serve piping hot and if it does dry out (pasta has the tendency to soak up any of the moisture in the dish), simply add some cream or milk to moisten it.

Paul Suplee is the owner of the
boxcar restaurants and is also
Senior Lecturer of Culinary Arts at UMES.
boxcarrestaurants.com