By Paul Suplee, MBA, CEC, PC-3
Oh, these fickle times during which we reinvent the wheel, conforming this terrible fantasy into something a little tastier.
Right when things start to look better, new information comes down the pike that will change how we our lives and conduct business for another, unknown and extended period of time.
With news coming out of Salisbury that they are mandating their own restrictions as the number of cases grows, we teachers and business owners (I happen to be both) are sitting here biting our nails and hoping for even a semblance of normalcy in this mad, mad world.
It is astounding to look back and truly absorb what we have been through since our state shutdown on March 12: six months of uncertainty, brazen business decisions and the ubiquitous reports of mainstay restaurants closing their doors for good. No, this does not look good for a great many people in our industry.
However, as it happens to go, many of us in the industry are certifiably insane, and we refuse to give up. We see new markets emerging, we embrace the most notable paradigm shift that hospitality has ever witnessed. And the crowning achievement?
The pandemic has given us the voice we always wished to have against the keyboard warriors out there, those nameless heroes who relentlessly leave nasty and unwarranted reviews.
Since the inception of online reviewing, we have been told not to respond defensively to bad reviews (luckily I don’t get but a scant few) as it would make us look bad.
Now, however, it has become an enjoyable game of cat-and-mouse. While I personally do not partake, I have friends with multiple restaurants who do. And, they are becoming professional comedians in the process, roasting reviewers who took it upon themselves to leave a terrible, baseless complaint for the world to see.
Maybe this outlet gives those of us who have sold our soul to the industry a good laugh. Or, maybe it finally lets us filter out the ridiculous and call them out. Yes, I like the latter explanation better.
Again, I am just fortunate that I don’t have these issues. I mean, it’s not to say that I won’t. Never say never, I guess. And on a side note, if someone has a legitimate complaint, I address it wholeheartedly as do my friends and colleagues. I am not referring to these.
But I digress. Let’s get back to a shift in how we do business. At the college, we are face-to-face for our labs, taking all necessary precautions so as to protect ourselves and those that we serve.
Since we cannot entertain in our dining room anymore, the students will be getting some lessons on carryout foods. This is quite relevant, as many restaurants have changed their full-service model to one that is based on to-go foods and quick service.
As such, as we have labs four days per week and we produce a fair amount of food, we will be packaging it up to be carried right out the door. Back to people’s offices they will go, armed with fresh and delicious scratch foods, such as this cod cake.
Since we are just starting American Regional Cuisine, New England seems like a fair enough place to begin our studies. Naturally the students learn about New England Clam Chowder, lobsters, squash in many forms (roasted, in a bisque et al) and cod.
And while I have never been the biggest fan of cod, I appreciate its place in American history, especially as it relates to George’s Bank and New England.
My favorite fish for this is grilled and chilled salmon. When I worked at the Polo Grill in Baltimore, Salmon was a standard banquet offering on Saturday nights.
As we would have some leftover, we would make these cakes with said salmon and they were divine. It is the same process, and the product with the forward nuances of the grill was unbelievably delicious.
Regardless, this dish is filling, warm and perfect as we head into the cooler season; a season that could be even more unusual than spring. At least we will eat good food.
Salmon or Cod Cakes
Serves 6
3 ea. Russet potatoes
1 med. Onion, julienne
1 # Grilled & chilled salmon or cod
1 tsp. Seafood seasoning
1 egg
1/2 c. Cream
1 c. Panko bread crumbs
3 Tbsp. Chopped parsley
2 eggs
1 c. Milk
2 c. Panko for breading
•Peel and chunk the potatoes and place in water with the onion
•Season with salt and pepper and simmer until ready for mashing
•Strain and allow to steam out for ten minutes
•Mash the potatoes until smooth and then add the chunks of the salmon, spice, egg, cream, parsley and bread crumbs
•Gently fold this mixture so as to maintain the flakes/chunks of the fish
•Press into patties and set aside
•In a bowl, combine the egg and milk to make an egg wash
•Dip the cakes in one at a time and coat in the second batch of bread crumbs
•Bake in a 375F oven for about twelve minutes, depending on the oven. Basically, just make sure that they are golden brown
•These are great simply drizzled with brown butter, or you can serve it with a tartar sauce of some sort. I stick with the butter
— Paul G. Suplee is an Associate Professor
of Culinary Arts at Wor-Wic Community College.
Find his ePortfolio at www.heartofakitchen.com.